Lassen Volcanic National Park

I had asked him if we should do a city instead of camping but he said since I have got that Annual Pass for National Parks we should utilize it and of course I am not the one to say no. It was Labor Day weekend and Yosemite was packed so I checked around and the images for Lassen Peak looked beautiful. Also, the sulphur springs were appealing because it was different and hence it was decided that we would do Lassen Volcanic National Park for the long weekend.

We started from LA around 3 pm; this was going to be one of our longer trips. It’s in Northern California and a good 8 hr. drive and Abhijeet started driving the first stretch, this is what I remember and it’s been some time now so I can’t recollect more about that drive. We would have switched at gas stations; we would have talked on this or that, listened to songs. I would remember Marcia from work who is married for 20 years now complaining how frustrating it is driving with your spouse for long hours and Hetal agreeing to it. I remember telling him that I don’t know what will happen 6 years from now but I kind of enjoy our long drives together. It was late and dark by the time we crossed Redding, and it’s the darkness which had registered for this stretch of road. And the fact that for that stretch of 2 hours, rarely a car or two passed us. And I couldn’t shrug of that feeling of going in-in-in deeper and deeper into the forest. He’d snap at me because I’d have closed the google maps and then we lost network. But the map ran from cache, so we were good and he did have a point. We passed Summit Lake North Campground; and we knew we were nearby. This time I had reserved the campground earlier for one night and so we managed to reach Summit Lake South Campground after a while. It took us two rounds to figure out where our site was because it was pitch black. As we parked and got out the cold stuck us, and it stuck us with ferocity. We got inside the car, put layers on and got about the business of pitching the tent. I had the air mattress, one sleeping bag and one blanket. Earlier while packing he had asked me to take a second blanket and I had rebuked him saying but this was California and it was still hot in LA, and I was pretty sure we’d manage with one blanket. I’d come to regret this lot. Thankfully we had jackets and gloves and socks so somehow we managed to get everything inside the tent. We had packed biryani earlier for dinner and we’d eat that shivering inside blankets in our tent. I had also forgotten to pack spoons or rather we could only find one and I guess we shared or ate using hands. We ate half and stored the rest in the cooler that we had borrowed from my roomies. More reluctantly we’d go and search for the washroom in that cold dark night and with some difficulty we’d find the pit toilets. There was only one good thing and I know it doesn’t make up for everything but it screams a mention. The night sky looked like a dome and there were a million stars and we’d both remark on this. I have encountered starry nights earlier but this somehow surpassed it all, like there was this one moment of pure awe when you realize that you are so small in this immense vastness and you offer a quick gratitude just for being there and witnessing it. A moment was all there was, it was way too cold to linger.

We had the site only for the night so we woke up the next day and looked around, fortunately one couple was leaving and they called us in and we took that. It was a good site and a good campground too, there were pine trees and a lake nearby; unfortunately we didn’t spend any time in there. We finished pitching and then we left for the Manzanita Lake Visitor’s center. We collected maps and headed for our first stop - Subway Cave. It was almost lunch when we started from here and we were hungry. But we didn’t want to lose time and we still had last night’s leftovers. So, I drove and Abhijeet had his lunch in car and then while returning he drove and I ate my lunch. It worked out nicely I would say. Subway cave was a lava tube formed during one of the volcanic eruptions of past. The lava on top, exposed to the air, cooled and formed a hard cap while molten lava continued to flow beneath.  Eventually, the molten lava drained away but the hollow tubes remained. It was kind of cool, as we descended into the dark with rough and uneven floor. As we hiked further it became completely dark which was kind of spooky but again really cool. We stepped out the other side after a short hike, shot some pictures and then started for our next stop.

It took us almost 2 hrs to reach Lassen Peak Trailhead and we were out of water so we had to go till the Kohm Yah-maa-nee Visitor Centre to get water. It was already 4 pm, I enquired at the Visitor Centre and he said we could still do the Lassen Peak. So, we reached the trailhead and started our ascent. And I can tell you we were tired after taking 20 steps but for some or other reason we decided to continue. We kept telling each other that we’ll go as far as we can and then we’ll return. I can’t deny that it was picturesque with spectacular views. We stopped for clicks; there was this one black and white bird that we chased to capture in a click for a while. But the high altitude with steep ascent made this trail difficult. We stopped a lot and I definitely slowed Abhijeet down but he was kind of okay about it, and it’s one of his good traits - he doesn’t make you feel guilty or he doesn’t rush you. And I’m not saying this because he is my boyfriend, he would be the same with anyone. He walks according to your pace, so we stopped every 10 minutes or so I should say. People were returning and they would remark that it’s really cold at the top. One of them remarked that I would appreciate my layers in a bit. It got colder as we ascended and the road became tough. We were on the verge of giving up at so many points that day and then we’d say a little more and go on. We had decided we would hike till it was 6 or 6:30 and then return. It was more difficult for me, I’d sigh with each step I had to take… but a part of me wanted to do it. Also we had come so far so we didn’t want to leave it mid-way. When we were half way through, we could see the snow on the mountain sides. It wasn’t just the height; hiking on the windward side hindered our progress too. Sun was going down and we couldn’t have afforded to go slow or take more stops on route. There were two peaks and from one milestone the highest one still looked way far and impossible to reach and so after some 2.2 miles I stopped. I was out of breath, the cold was getting to me and I wasn’t able to go any further so I asked him to continue alone. It took some persuading and a lot of reassurance on my end that I would wait there and then he started. After climbing some more he shouted down to me that it was just 0.2 miles more and egged me to come on up. It was just there, and so I reached the peak. It was freezing on the top but we had reached just in time for sunset and it was beautiful, there was snow around us. There were these two Chinese photographers who were the only other people there apart from us. It was a sight to behold. I took my bulky sweatshirt out so I could get a good picture taken amidst Abhijeet’s protests that I’d get hypothermia. We spend 10-15 minutes and it was really cold and unconducive and of course Abhijeet was shouting at me to leave. He wasn’t wrong; as we started our descent I realized I couldn’t feel my fingers anymore. And the slightest twinge of fear entered my head as to what if he was really right about the hypothermia thingy. Initially we had shared a glove each but it wasn’t helping anyone and since I had more layers of clothing than him I gave him the gloves. The jacket pockets weren’t helping and my fingers were going numb so I put my palm inside my shirt, on my lower abdomen and there it stayed. It took a while but my body heat took care of it I guess, and as we got down the temperature was bearable and I could feel my fingers again. It was still a long way downhill and by now darkness had set in. We didn’t take many stops while getting down but man it did seem like it would never end. We had a flashlight and we just kept walking, cursing ourselves as to why did we ever start on this insane hike - it had literally become a night hike by now. He’d ask me every now and then to tread carefully lest I tripped but I just assured him that I was doing fine. And then I did trip and I was more worried that he’d shout at me rather than think about how injured I was. It was a bad scratch which we’d find later but it was okay. He didn’t scold or shout at me, he was a little concerned. After what felt like forever we finally managed to reach the trailhead. We were cold and hungry and our bodies were aching all over.

We discussed and drove till Manzanita Lake campground hoping we might be able to get something to eat. It was past 9 pm by now and by the time we reached the food courts were closed. The shower however was open and it looked inviting. After a hot shower it did feel a little better and we drove back to our campground. I don’t remember if we made a fire the second day, it was way too cold and we were tired. We munched on chips and fruits or something and we went to sleep.

We woke up the next morning and it kind of started on a good note. But there was still cold and previous day’s exhaustion to be dealt with. We packed up and while leaving I realized we never roamed around the campsite or took pictures, there was a beautiful lake nearby and there’d have been other things. That’s a teeny tiny regret, like I said I wish we were better weather proofed. We first went to the Kohm Yah-maa-nee Visitor Centre for a hearty breakfast and a much needed cup of coffee. We saw some blue jays just by our car and it made me happy, I now like to think of them as our birds.

The agenda for today was Bumpass Hell and we started walking from near Lake Helen trailhead. Along the way the trail leads to stunning panoramas, and now and then I’d tell Abhijeet to look at something or other. He wasn’t in his best of moods that morning, or at least that’s what I assumed. Consequently I sulked part of the way, but I couldn’t keep up with the sulking when the surroundings are so beautiful. I do remember that he had snapped at me for something or other and I would walk behind him and let distance or passersby come in between us. But it was short-lived, he’d wait and I’d go join him, deciding that it’s not worth it. What with the ever changing vistas of dense woodlands, and meadows covered with wildflowers- it was difficult to stay miffed for long. Soon, we reached the end of the ridge and descended into the trail for Bumpass Hell. The smell of hydrogen sulfide filled the air and we started on the wooden boardwalks that traversed the hot-pools. It was really cool, seeing geo thermal action in nature. The pools were greyish blue in color here, and slightly greenish (a distinct turquoise) elsewhere, and they were bubbling with smoke coming out from it. There were mud pots and fumaroles and hot springs, the surrounding rocks were colored yellow, red and brown by the elements. It was colorful and different and cool like nature’s own chemistry laboratory. We spent some time taking pictures, reading about the various geothermal features before starting on our way back. I remember seeing chipmunks, overheard a kid naming them chip or dale. We met other trekkers on our way back; one of them was dressed as tigger - the character from Winnie the Pooh. The sun was going up and as the warmth seeped in, so did our countenance. The return hike was more enjoyable and accompanied with jests and good-humored banter. We stopped by Lake Helen too and I dipped my legs in the cold water, took some more pictures with the blue lake and the volcanic mountain in the background.

Next we stopped at the King’s Creek Picnic area- the sole purpose here was taking pictures. It is a large flat meadow with a meandering creek. From the Upper Kings Creek meadow one could see the evergreens at a distance with the Lassen Peak towering over it. There were butterflies, small birds, lush green grass and lupines blooming in the flat grassland. We spent some quality time here, taking shots from different angle, enjoying the tranquil landscape. Abhijeet finally took his sweatshirt off and posed; he also crossed the creek and went to the other side for more pictures. Suffice it to say we had a good time here. Our last stop for the day was at the Devastated Area. It was just a 0.5 mile loop which had interpretive exhibits with audio description. A quick stop and we started for our way home.

We had a long 8 hr. drive ahead of us. At around 3 or 4 pm we stopped at a Panda Hut for lunch, abhijeet reminded me now while I was penning this down that he nearly hit someone, only that he didn’t but it was a close call. Anyways, we made it to Northridge by 10 or 10:30 pm and all in all it wasn’t a bad trip. I’ll agree that we weren’t as prepared and it was somewhat more arduous than our other trips. But in retrospect we can always say that we climbed atop an active volcano, saw geothermal hot springs and made it home in one piece.